When I first visited Hampstead Pergola & Hill Gardens many autumns ago, the fading leaves and cool breezes gave me little hint of the rose paradise that lay dormant beneath winter's approach. How wrong I was to miss what has now become one of my favorite rose photography locations in all of London!
Having recently revisited this magnificent location during peak rose season, I'm compelled to correct my previous oversight and share with fellow rose enthusiasts what might be London's most underrated rose destination. While not officially designated as a rose garden, the Hill Garden and Pergola offers a spectacular showcase of climbing and rambling roses that deserves recognition in every rose lover's London itinerary.
A Fragrant History in Bloom
Hampstead Pergola stands as a wonderful example of faded grandeur and is undeniably one of London's hidden treasures. This raised walkway, stretching over 230 meters (800 feet), creates the perfect structure for the vines and roses that now embrace its weathered beams and columns.
The inception of this magnificent garden dates back to the early 20th century, a period of significant landscape design innovation in Britain. William Hesketh Lever, the successful industrialist and founder of what would become consumer goods giant Unilever, acquired the property known as "The Hill" in 1904. With a keen appreciation for landscape gardening, Lever embarked on creating this magnificent raised structure.
The construction of the pergola was a truly remarkable feat of engineering for its time. Rising 30 feet above the surrounding landscape, it required thousands of barrow loads of soil in an era when such work could only be done by hand. Innovative for its day, the project utilized spoil excavated during the construction of the Hampstead extension of the Northern Line to create the raised terraces.
To realize his ambitious vision, Lever enlisted Thomas Mawson, a highly regarded landscape architect associated with the Arts and Crafts movement. Mawson's design expertise created this harmonious blend of formal architectural elements with naturalistic planting schemes that we still enjoy today. Sadly, while construction was still underway, Lever unexpectedly died, and the gardens eventually fell into decades of disrepair.
Thankfully, this horticultural wonder has been beautifully restored and is now free for anyone to explore—with its magnificent roses being one of the garden's most splendid yet overlooked features.
Rose Season at the Pergola
For rose photographers and enthusiasts, timing is everything. The best period to visit Hampstead Pergola for roses is from late May through the end of July, when these magnificent flowers are in their prime. My recent visit in early June revealed a stunning display that exceeded all expectations.
While London's rose season generally extends from mid-May through August, I'd recommend early to mid-June as the absolute sweet spot for visiting the Pergola. During this time, you'll find the climbing and rambling roses reaching their peak splendor, creating a photographer's paradise of color, texture, and fragrance.
The Forgotten Rose Collection
What's particularly intriguing about the roses at Hampstead Pergola is their somewhat mysterious nature. Unlike many formal rose gardens where each variety is meticulously labeled, the roses here grow in glorious anonymity. There are no identification markers or information displays to tell visitors which varieties adorn the pergola's beams and columns.
This botanical mystery adds to the charm, but for rose enthusiasts, it presents a delightful challenge. Based on my observations and research, the pergola hosts a diverse collection of climbing and rambling roses alongside wisteria, clematis, and other vines. The surrounding gardens, including the "triangular garden," feature additional rose bushes interspersed among other plantings.
The Architecture and Roses: A Perfect Marriage
The pergola itself stands as the architectural centerpiece of the garden, with its series of stone columns and supporting wooden beams creating the perfect stage for the rose display. Thomas Mawson, the renowned landscape architect who designed the garden, was known for his skillful incorporation of climbing plants, particularly roses and clematis, into his designs.
Historical accounts indicate that Mawson frequently employed roses to adorn the pergolas he created, and The Hill Garden exemplifies this approach beautifully. The profusion of climbing flora, including roses, is particularly striking during the summer months when the plants are in full bloom.
During restoration efforts, the City of London Corporation reportedly consulted planting schemes described in a 1912 article from Gardeners Chronicle. While Thomas Mawson's original planting plans may no longer exist, this historical information helped guide the restoration, suggesting that the current roses may represent a thoughtful blend of period-appropriate varieties.
If you were intrigued by the gardens history and want to learn more about it as well as see historical plans of the garden that survived to this day then you will enjoy this article on the garden history blog.
A Photographer's Guide to Capturing Roses at the Pergola
For photographers seeking to capture the roses of Hampstead Pergola, I offer these tips based on my recent visit:
- Morning Light: Arrive early (around 8-9 AM) when the morning sun filters through the pergola structure, creating magical light patterns on the roses.
- Weather Considerations: Slightly overcast days provide perfect diffused light for capturing the delicate details and colors of the roses without harsh shadows.
- Composition Opportunities: Look for contrasts between the weathered wooden beams and the fresh, vibrant roses—these juxtapositions tell the story of this historic space.
- Macro Moments: Don't forget your macro lens to capture the intricate details of individual blooms, particularly after a light morning dew.
- Human Element: Including people strolling the pergola (from a respectful distance) can add scale and narrative to your images.
- Respect other visitors: Please don't forget to be respectful of other visitors.
- Follow parks Filming & Photography Regulation: The park management is now restricted wedding, engagement or other commercial photography at the location and requires that such are approved by the park management ahead of the visit. Check City of London website for more information about filming and photography activities at the park.
Practical Information for Visitors
The Hill Garden and Pergola is located in North London, near Hampstead Heath. The nearest tube stations are Hampstead or Golders Green, though be prepared for a scenic walk from either. The gardens are open year-round, but as mentioned, late May through July offers the optimal rose viewing experience.
Entry to this magnificent space is free—a remarkable privilege considering its grandeur and historical significance. For photographers, tripods are generally not permitted, even the editor of the Guardian got in a bit of a pickle with the park police over this. For keen photographers it's wise to visit on weekdays or early mornings to avoid crowds. If you are planning to use a drone then you will need to seek a permit for the drone usage on site.
A Rose Paradise Rediscovered
My return to Hampstead Pergola during rose season has completely transformed my appreciation of this historic garden. What I once viewed primarily as an architectural curiosity has revealed itself as one of London's most spectacular—if unofficial—rose gardens.
For rose lovers and photographers visiting London, I cannot recommend this location highly enough. While famous rose gardens like Queen Mary's Gardens in Regent's Park rightfully attract crowds, Hampstead Pergola offers a more intimate, romantic experience with its blend of historical grandeur and botanical beauty.
The roses here aren't merely garden specimens—they're living participants in a century-old narrative of wealth, social change, abandonment, and revival. Their blooms against the weathered pergola create a visual poetry that no purpose-built rose garden can quite match.
So next time you're planning a rose viewing & photography excursion in London, move Hampstead Hill Garden and Pergola to the top of your list. This hidden rose paradise awaits your discovery—camera in hand, ready to capture the beauty that has been hiding in plain sight all along.
Have you visited the Hill Garden and Pergola during rose season? Share your experiences and photos in the comments below!
And in case you're wondering about my earlier post about this garden, here is a link to the article: Pergola Hill garden Londons best kept secret.
.jpeg)
